Fashion as a form of self-expression is nothing new. For Black fashion in particular,
cultural resistance and statement pieces date back to at least the 18th century.
The concept of Black Dandyism emerged in 18th-century London during the peak of the
transatlantic slave trade. The Common Good magazine, in its “History of Black Fashion,”
defined it as a “man of good character, mirrored in his ‘absolute precision in dress,’ or
‘flamboyance and fabulousness.’” Both enslaved and free Black people participated in
dandyism, with the former reinterpreting the clothing forced on them as “luxury slaves,”
instead turning it into a tool of cultural defiance. Through this, they re-expressed and
re-informed their own agency and subverted expectations of what a slave should look
like.
Doechii photographed at the 2025 Met Gala in New York City.
Originally taken by Dimitrios Kambouris, published by Forbes.
By the 19th century,Black fashion had shifted from symbols of enslavement to the
beginnings of Black-owned businesses, though they had originated before abolition. A
prominent example of this is Sarah Boone, who patented the refurbished ironing board,
which simplified the laundry process for dressmakers significantly. Frederick Douglass
also utilized fashion during this era. Through his choice of clothing, Douglass was able
to escape enslavement by disguising himself as a sailor. Afterward, he used tailored
clothing to challenge caricatures and minstrelsy of Black Americans. Over the course of
his life, he sat for approximately 160 portraits before his death in 1895.
Portrait of the late Frederick Douglass circa 1850, published on Substack.
Less than 20 years later, the Great Migration saw the relocation of over six million Black
Americans from the rural South to cities in the North, Midwest, and West. Fashion
became a symbol of newly announced freedom and a rejection of the Jim Crow
domination. The Harlem Renaissance became an epicenter for fashion, with styles like
the “Zoot Suit” and “Drape Suit” for men, and flapper dresses with the embrace of the
Jazz Age. This is also where Black Dandyism began to blossom into a full-fledged
cultural movement, led by Black intellectuals, writers, and artists.
Two African-American teenagers wearing zoot suits circa 1940, published by Britannica.
Today, what makes fashion the best form of self-expression is its immediacy as a
communication medium. Before starting a conversation, the clothing we choose speaks
for us. With hip-hop driving bold, creative styles in the 80s and 90s it gave birth to a
global style revolution. This global style revolution laid the blueprints for how we dress
in modern-day. Large gold hoops, streetwear designer, high-top sneakers– all of it
dictates how we run a space and take control of our own narratives.
Not only does fashion shape how other people see it, it also impacts our perception of
ourselves. When we choose how to dress, we enact a process called “Enclothed
Cognition,” which changes how our brain functions and triggers feelings specific to that
article of clothing. The saying “Look smart, feel smart,” for example, is literal. We expand
our fashion as we grow, using it to test out different versions of ourselves until we find
the one that feels the most authentic.
Just as it has been for centuries, Black youth utilize fashion to dismantle social norms
surrounding gender, status, and beauty standards. Wisdom Kaye, a 25-year-old
Nigerian-American who grew up in Texas, blew up on TikTok for his Vogue Challenge in
2020. He uses his platform to bypass dictation on menswear, doting heels and flowing
skirts to show how fashion is for everyone, regardless of gender. He uses fashion to
portray concepts that go against the grain, continuing the trend of paving the way for
future generations through clothing.
Photo taken of Wisdom Kaye, published on Instagram
Ultimately, the evolution proves that fashion isn’t just articles of fabric, but a breathing
example of resilience, individualism, and expression. From the 18th-century subversion
of clothes from oppression to social media creatives shattering binaries, clothing is one
of the most accessible ways to practice outward expression of self and identity. It is the
reclaiming of autonomy every time with every deliberate choice. In a world that
demands conformity and suppression, personal style is an ultimate act of self-love,
authenticity, and history. Fashion moves with us, adapts as we grow, and ages with us. It
is telling the world who we are, in a way that cannot be dictated or silenced.
